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COLD BEET AND CELERY SOUP
1 cup finely chopped onion
2 cups thinly sliced celery
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons sugar
1 1/2 pounds beets, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar plus additional to taste
3 cups low-salt chicken broth
ice water for thinning soup
sour cream, seasoned with bottled horseradish, and minced fresh chives for garnish

Roast the red beets with garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil at 400 degrees, for at least 30 minutes and as long as 45, depending upon your oven. The roasing process really intensifies the sugars within the beet. The beets should be tender and have 'give' under a fork, but have a bit of crispiness on the outside edges. Best results are found by quartering them--if you roast them whole, they could take a couple hours. After roasting, peel and puree. The crisped sides actually puree up along with the roasted flesh to add more flavor. You should, however, remove the outer skin after roasting--it gets gruesome bitter. (I peeled beforehand).

In a heavy saucepan cook onion and celery in oil with sugar and salt and pepper to taste over moderately low heat, stirring, until softened and add beets, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and broth. Simmer mixture, covered, 35 to 40 minutes, or until beets are very tender.
In a blender purée mixture in batches until very smooth, transferring as puréed to a bowl. Chill soup, covered, at least 6 hours or overnight.

Add sour cream and/or nonfat yogurt to thin out the soup, and to add a layer of tanginess. Garnish with rustic toast points and some lemon zest.

Garnish soup with sour cream and chives.
Makes about 7 cups.